Tag Archives: Do It Yourself Repair

How to Repair Self Cleaning Ovens and Oven Timers in Brooklyn, NY

If your oven takes too long to heat up, bake doesn’t work or if you have any other problem, simply call an oven repair specialist and let them fix the problem and return your oven to perfect working order. Call today to schedule an appointment for your oven repair in Brooklyn, NY. They will work with you to set up a repair appointment for a time that is most convenient for you.

When scheduling a Brooklyn oven repair appointment, they will always accommodate your busy life style.


The thermal element of a typical bellows-type thermostat of a bulb and a metal diaphragm connected by a capillary tube is a sealed system filled with a liquid (or sometimes gaseous). The sensing bulb is located in the oven at a point determined by the manufacturer. As the bulb is heated, the liquid or gas throughout thermal element system expands, causing an increase in pressure on the diaphragm or bellows. This actuates a switch through a mechanical linkage that provides snap-action, necessary to reduce arcing of con facts. Self-cleaning gas ranges normally use the same control as the electric ranges, with electrical solenoids opening and closing gas valves. In standard gas ranges with mechanical thermostats, the movement of the diaphragm would move a valve disk towards the seat (in the closed position). It’s easy to see that the placement of the capillary has a direct effect upon oven temperature. Be sure that it is firmly in place in the clips or brackets provided. A tube touching an oven liner gives erratic readings and sluggish operation. Sharp bends in capillary tubing can prevent transmission of pressure change to the diaphragm. To calibrate the oven thermostat, follow the same general procedures that you would for a standard oven but be certain that you turn the bake calibration screw and not the clean adjusting screw. Remove the knob from the front panel and locate the calibration adjusting screw .for the bake cycle. If it’s not readily apparent, look within the center of the control shaft or look for a movable skirt on the knob itself. You’ll probably see an arrow marked increase and pointing in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, indicating the direction you should turn to increase or decrease temperature. Proceed to adjust the temperature following the same general guidelines given for standard ovens in the preceding chapter.

Remember, that some self-cleaning oven controls have separate calibration adjustments for the clean temperature. This requires special measuring devices and techniques, and should be left to a technician. It would be a rare occasion when a simple bake temperature calibration didn’t resolve a temperature problem. These control circuitry in various selections bring manually set by the user. The wring diagram is necessary to circuits involved. It might be helpful to know [hat I’ve observed selector switch often is blamed for many ills in self-cleaning ovens, but it seldom out to be the real culprit.


These are basically the same as standard oven timers with addition of one or two sets of contacts. A clock mechanism mechanically  activates the switches, depending upon the setting prescribed by the user. These contacts are often exposed, making visual inspection. Again, the timer is seldom the offender. On some models it disconnects a rear surface unit during clean cycles. Self-cleaning ovens are fitted with a latching device to lock the door when temperatures rise above 600 degrees. This latch keeps the door locked until the oven has cooled down after cleaning. It’s a safety device. You should never override or disconnect it. But sometimes the latch may not close completely, and an electrical interlock prevents the range from going to clean temperatures unless the door is secured. Or worse, perhaps the door won’t unlock at all. Before you remedy the problem, you must determine if the latch is mechanical (with a lever that you move manually to lock the door) or electrical (locks automatically when switch is turned to clean position).

Keeping Your Automatic Washer Troublefree

The best way that I have found to do is to make the diagnosis first from the symptoms of the machine, then from further tests in the areas where the particular problem is likely to occur. Symptoms are listed in the order they are most likely to incur in the cycle of the machine.

SYMPTOM: Water will not enter the machine

If your washer doesn’t spin, the agitator doesn’t turn, or if you have any other problem, simply contact a Brooklyn appliance repair specialist and let us them the problem and return your washer to perfect working order. Call them today to schedule an appointment for your washer repair in Brooklyn. They will work with you to set up a repair appointment for a time that is most convenient for you:

Check the obvious first: An inlet hose may be crimped, or perhaps is turned off. Water-inlet hoses have filter screens. Sand or rust scaled off within the water line may have clogged the screens. Another filter is located in the inlet valve at the point where the hose attaches to the machine. Remove these screens and clean them under a running faucet, using an old tooth brush to remove all of the accumulation. Often these won’t appear to be clogged yet they won’t pass water, due to thin transparent film of algae. If cleaning doesn’t remove all, replace the screens. Don’t operate the washer without screens, as particles might lodge in the valve and prevent it from closing. If no results use your ears for a moment. Is there a low buzzing sound when the water should be coming in If not, go to the water­ in valve. To get to this valve you must raise the top of the washer. Remove the screws, raise the top tilt the back, and slide it forward. Before exposing any electrical conneclions in this manner, always unplug the machine. Water inlet valves in automatic washers are operated by a solenoid. When current flows through this coil, a magnetic field is created, raising if plunger inside the valve and allowing water to flow into the machine. When the magnetic force is removed, spring action seats the plunger and the water flow is shut off.

Your washer will have one, two, or three of these solenoids, de­pending oil the number of water-temperature selections. To check the coils, look for the wires leading to the water valve. Each coil will have two wires connected to its terminals. Check the coils for continuity and ground with your meter. A deflection should occur when the meter leads are placed across the terminals of a solenoid, denoting electrical continuity through the coils of wire within. To check for a ground, touch one meter lead to the frame of the cabinet, the other to each of the solenoid terminals in turn. No meter deflection should occur, no electrical leakage to ground. If either test shows that the solenoids is faulty, remove the screws that connect it to the valve and replace it with a new one obtained from your dealer. If all checks well, refer to the wiring diagram on the machine for it component marked “water-level switch” or “float switch.” This switch controls the amount of water entering the basket. The diagram shows one of the wires from the switch leading from the timer, and another leading to the inlet-valve solenoid or to the water-temperature Continuity should be read across these two terminals, water in the basket, and with one of the wires disconnected at the Dash on terminals. Now go to the water-temperature switch, and check for continuity from the terminal from the water-level switch file terminal leading to the solenoid in question. Keep in mind the short cuts possible when you use one of the best test instruments available your own ears. Listen to the machine. If you hear a slight hum, the solenoid is buzzing. This tells you that the solenoid, water-level switch, timer, temperature switch, and other washer components are good. The problem is mechanical. Check for restriction in the water line. By the same token, should no hum be heard, eliminate the mechanical operation of the water-inlet valve and devote your time to testing the electrical components with your meter. Applying your efforts and thinking along this line makes your diagnosis more accurate and much quicker, and prevents traveling up many blind alleys. It’s as easy its 1, 2, 3. Observe, listen, and analyze accordingly

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Expert heating and furnace repair tips for at home repair men

The information we provide on our website is here to help you gain more knowledge about your Heating or Furnace system. More efficient Heating or Furnace system usage can help you save on your utility bills and on possible future repairs by extending the life of your Heating or Furnace system.

Warning: HEATING OR FURNACE SYSTEMS CAN BECOME DANGEROUS IF YOU TRY TO REPAIR WITHOUT EXPERIENCE, TRADE KNOWLEDGE, AND THE RIGHT TOOLS. We strongly advise you not perform any Heating or Furnace system repairs on your own. Heating or Furnace system repairs attempted by anyone without professional experience, training, and understanding of gas and electrical systems can become very dangerous. For professional help call Bear Appliance Repair in Brooklyn, NY 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

When the furnace works but heat doesn’t get through

IF YOUR OIL BURNER or gas fur­nace is functioning, but heat is not being delivered to the rooms, there is a malfunction in the delivery system. Let’s run down each of the delivery systems to see what you can do to overcome the problem, and at least get some heat into the house.

Steam system—Check the boiler gauge. A burner will shut off automatically if the water level in the boiler gets below a certain level.
Hot-water system Inspect the circulator. One that needs lubrication will not circulate hot water although the burner will continue to operate. Caution: Lubricate the circulator only with the grade of oil and/or cup grease recommended on the instruc­tion plate attached to the circulator’s body. Any other type may cause a complete breakdown.
If the circulator has stopped work­ing whether for lack of lubricant or some other reason, press the reset button on the device one time only. If there is no reset button, slap the housing with your hand. A circulator will not deliver heat if one of its couplings is broken. How­ever, the unit will continue to run, so put your ear close to the housing and listen for a sharp, rapping sound.

You may be able to repair the break temporarily. Remove the access cover. If you can get at the broken coupling, wire the broken cross-pieces together. If you cannot repair the circulator, but the burner is operating, you should be able to get some heat through the house. Most hot-water systems have a flow valve on the water line that runs from the furnace to the heat-radiating components. Open the valve. This will feed hot water through the system by gravity.

Important: Don’t forget to close the flow valve after the circulator has been repaired.
Forced-air systems One reason for a reduced heat condition in a forced-air system is a clogged air fil­ter. If you have a spare around, install it. If not, remove the old filter (some furnaces have more than one), take it out-of-doors, and knock it against a hard surface to loosen dirt.

Another reason for little heat delivery is a broken blower-motor belt. The best solution is to replace the belt, so you should keep a spare on hand. You can buy a belt for your blower motor from a hardware store or gasoline station. Make sure it is the right size. Place the belt on the blower-motor pulleys and tighten the adjusting nut, which is usually found behind the motor, until the belt has about 1/2-inch free play. If you do not have a spare belt, try wrapping some strong rope around the pulleys as a temporary measure. A final reason for failure of a forced-air system to deliver heat is a short in the blower motor. A short is indicated by on-off cycling of the motor in short spurts or complete refusal to run. Shut off the switch controlling the blower motor and remove all filters from the furnace. Some hot air will rise and permeate through the ducts to the registers so that minimum fort may be attained until a service technician arrives.

For professional help call Bear Appliance Repair 24/7:

Bear Appliance Repair repairs all models and brands of Heating or Furnace systems in Brooklyn. If your Heating or Furnace system is noisy, you feel smell of gas or if you have any other problem, simply call their toll free number and let them fix the problem and return your Heating or Furnace system to perfect working order. Call them today to schedule an appointment for your Heating or Furnace system repair in Brooklyn. They will work with you to set up a repair appointment for a time that is most convenient for you.